Best ingredients for sun damage: what each one does

Retinol: vitamin A derivative (retinoid)

Use retinol to speed up surface renewal so fine lines, rough texture and clogged pores look smoother over time. It sits best evening only, around 0.2–0.5% for beginners, up to 1% with experience, beginning two nights per week, then three after a fortnight.

Typical sensation: light dryness or tightness during the first weeks, never burning. Timeline: 12 weeks for visible change; the first four weeks are an adjustment period. Be careful with glycolic or salicylic acid on the same night.

Vitamin C: antioxidant (L-ascorbic acid and derivatives)

The usual job of vitamin C is to help neutralise free radicals from sun and pollution and brighten the look of uneven tone. Typical strength is 10–15% L-ascorbic acid or 2–10% gentler derivatives, used morning, under sunscreen; start daily if tolerated, every other day for sensitive skin.

Typical sensation: slight tingle on pure ascorbic forms, none with derivatives. Timeline: eight to twelve weeks for tone and brightness. Be careful with strong acids layered right before it.

SPF: broad-spectrum sunscreen

Use SPF to block or absorb UVA and UVB so tone, texture and lines age more slowly. It sits best morning, reapplied outdoors, around SPF 30 minimum, SPF 50 for pigment-prone skin, beginning every day, including cloudy days.

Typical sensation: can feel heavy or white on mineral formulas; modern fluids feel light. Timeline: protection is immediate; visible benefits show in months and years. Be careful with applying too little.

Putting them together without overdoing it

Do not start all of them in one week. Add the first, wait two to four weeks, then add the second. For sun damage, retinol usually goes first, alongside this adjustment: apply SPF 50 as the last step every morning and reapply when outdoors.

Avoid new tanning while treating spots while you test.

Your weekly zone checklist

Skin rarely changes everywhere at once, so score each zone separately and note the date.

When sun damage pushes back

Most setbacks are predictable. Here is what to do about each.

Frequently asked questions