Best ingredients for hyperpigmentation: what each one does

Vitamin C: antioxidant (L-ascorbic acid and derivatives)

The usual job of vitamin C is to help neutralise free radicals from sun and pollution and brighten the look of uneven tone. Typical strength is 10–15% L-ascorbic acid or 2–10% gentler derivatives, used morning, under sunscreen; start daily if tolerated, every other day for sensitive skin.

Typical sensation: slight tingle on pure ascorbic forms, none with derivatives. Timeline: eight to twelve weeks for tone and brightness. Be careful with strong acids layered right before it.

Azelaic acid: dicarboxylic acid

Use azelaic acid to calm the look of redness, even out tone and help with post-blemish marks. It sits best morning or evening, around 10% cosmetic, 15–20% typically prescribed, beginning once daily after a week of every other day.

Typical sensation: tingling for the first weeks that eases. Timeline: six to twelve weeks for tone and redness. Be careful with other strong acids on the same night while adapting.

Tranexamic acid: pigment-targeting active

The usual job of tranexamic acid is to help fade the look of stubborn dark patches and uneven tone. Typical strength is 2–5% in serums, used morning or evening; start daily after a few days of every-other-day use.

Typical sensation: light and non-stinging for most skin. Timeline: eight to twelve weeks. Be careful with layering with several exfoliants.

Putting them together without overdoing it

Do not start all of them in one week. Add the first, wait two to four weeks, then add the second. For hyperpigmentation, vitamin C usually goes first, alongside this adjustment: use a broad-spectrum SPF 50 daily and add vitamin C in the morning.

Avoid high-strength peels without professional guidance while you test.

A zone-by-zone check

Skin rarely changes everywhere at once, so score each zone separately and note the date.

If things do not go to plan

Most setbacks are predictable. Here is what to do about each.

Frequently asked questions